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Taking the long and winding trail: Simmon Ashley shares what it takes to be a mule wrangler at the Grand Canyon

Simmon Ashley has worked as a wrangler at the Grand Canyon Mule Barn for over six years. Loretta Yerian/WGCN

Simmon Ashley has worked as a wrangler at the Grand Canyon Mule Barn for over six years. Loretta Yerian/WGCN

GRAND CANYON, Ariz. - Native Americans have been known throughout the centuries for being aware of their surroundings and attentive to the needs of those in their care, including their animals.

These same qualities are true for mule wranglers at the Grand Canyon. It was no surprise to find Simmon Ashley, a member of the Navajo Nation working as a wrangler at the Grand Canyon Mule Barn.

"I love my job," Ashley said.

Ashley is responsible for taking visitors, often called dudes, on mule rides in and out of the Grand Canyon.

This is Simon's sixth year at the Mule Barn - by now he is a seasoned pro.

As a senior wrangler, Ashley is attuned to his surroundings, paying close attention to every detail - from the twitch of his mule's ear to the dude nervously sitting astride a mule for the first time.

Many dudes have never been on a mule, much less on a strenuous ride on one of the world's most well known and traversed trails. Expectations are high, for Ashley there are two main priorities - ensuring the dudes enjoy their once in a life time experience and keeping them safe.

"In the summer, the quicker you get to Phantom (Ranch) the better it is for the people - to get them out of the heat," Ashley said. "We try to get them down there sooner, before one o'clock because it can be 121 to 127 degrees (Fahrenheit) at the bottom. People dehydrate and they black out. When you see them bobbing, they're dehydrating. "

Watching for bobbing heads and assuring a healthy and enjoyable ride is part of Ashley's job.

There's a reason for the dark shades Ashley wears most days.

"I wear kind of dark glasses to see which ones (dudes) are drinking," he said. "You have to keep up with your people, I keep an eye on them. You can't let people slide or that's when accidents happen."

Before Ashley takes the dudes into the Canyon he gives a safety briefing, explaining the details of the ride and the basics of riding a mule.

Along the trail Ashley points out views and explains history, geology and legends from the Canyon.

One tradition Ashley has is telling the story of the Keeper of the Canyon and sharing some Native American history. As he explains these and other facts about the Canyon, Ashley keeps a watchful eye on his dudes. Depending on the day, wranglers will be in charge of guiding up to 10 dudes along the trail - not always an easy task.

Ashley watches for subtle indications to get a reading on how each mule is doing - paying special attention to the mule's ears.

"That's how I can tell with my mules, the ears," he said. "When they're (perked up and pointing forward) he's listening to what's going on or his ears will just be rolling (when he's relaxed)."

When everything is okay in the mule string, Ashley said the mule will still be alert but mainly playing follow the leader.

"Later on one (ear) will be listening and the other rolling," Ashley said.

One thing mules learn quickly is how to share the Canyon trails with hikers and all of their packs and gear.

"He'll just look at the hikers," Ashley said. "We'll tell the hikers, 'inside, please.'"

Ashley said hiking poles and packs are normally what frighten the mules.

"We just really have to be careful when we're going into the Canyon, you've got 10 people behind you and it's for their safety," Ashley said. "All mules are different, some hug the wall and some of them hug the edge."

Instructing riders and helping instill confidence for the ride is another of

Ashley's responsibilities.

"Some of these guys are first time riders and when they're not used to it they'll say, 'He's too close! He's too close!'" Simon said. "You tell them, 'Pull him back, it has a reverse.'"

After going into the Canyon the mules are given a few days off to recuperate. Because the rides to Phantom Ranch are overnight, some of the mules will rest at the ranch.

"We love our mules and give them that time, even coming back out we give them at least 30 breaks going up," Ashley said. "Every other switchback we stop coming out."

The mules normally go down the Bright Angel Trail and back up the South Kaibab, depending on when the pack mules are taking supplies, food and other materials to Phantom Ranch. To make sure they have adequate passing space for pack mules and riding mules, the wranglers are communicate and know when they'll be on the same trail.

Making the trip in and out of the Canyon is second nature for Ashley, by now he and most of the mules have memorized the trails.

Ashley started working at the mule barn after his sister, who works in Grand Canyon Village, suggested he try out for a job as a mule guide. Today, Ashley loves what he does. He has worked at the barn for over six years and said he wouldn't have it any other way.

"If I didn't like it, I wouldn't stay," he said.

Ashley grew up on the eastern side of the Navajo reservation, eight miles off of Interstate 40, in a little town called Sanders.

Sanders is where Ashley learned to cowboy, where he broke horses for money before and after high school and where he learned many of his family's Navajo traditions.

It was in the shadow of the leftover ruins of the general store in Burnt Water, outside of Sanders, that Ashley's parents, Tom Joe and Rose Thomas raised Ashley on a small ranch and taught him the traditions of the Navajo

"My clan (in English) would be called Two People Come to the Water," Ashley said. "Growing up we had cattle, horses, sheep, pigs, geese, chickens all that. We were raised in the old way - very traditional."

Learning to speak English during his high school years was a challenge for Ashley - one he had to work for many years to overcome.

"When I graduated high school I had a hard time facing English speakers," he said. "The way I looked at it I would rather have spoke my language than English."

Despite the language barrier, Ashley worked as a polyethylene welder and went on the road for the next nine years. When the Sept. 11 attacks on New York's Twin Towers occurred Ashley decided it was time for a career change.

"When they got hit I got scared to fly from job to job," he said.

Ashley ended up in Seattle, Washington, working for the Louisiana Pacific Sawmill where he helped ship lumber all over the Northwest.

"I worked up there for 19 years," Ashley said. "It was a dangerous job but I did it - it was a really good job, I liked it."

When the mill was forced to close, Ashley moved back to Arizona where he landed the job at the mule barn.

"I came home (to Arizona) eight years ago," he said. "I just blend in, I knew what I was doing and what I was getting myself into."

Today, Ashley makes two trips a week into the Canyon along with one ride along the rim. On his days off he drives to Sanders to visit his wife and other family and friends.

For Ashley being a mule wrangler means being accountable for the people and the mules in his care. It's a job he wouldn't change for the world.

"(Being a mule wrangler) takes a lot of responsibility," Ashley said. "You really, really have to watch what you do. I love what I do."


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